Post by Bones on Jun 11, 2013 21:37:40 GMT -6
Make your Own Warrior Engine Oil Cooler!
Supplies Needed
1- #401 Oil Cooler, or smallest tranny cooler you can find.
8 feet of 3/8" oil cooler hose
2- 90 degree brass fittings with 1/8-27 National Pipe Thread
2-3/8" brass hose barbs with 1/8-27 NPT
OIL COOLER INSTALLATION
Clutch Cover Modification:
1) Drain engine oil and remove clutch cover located on right side of engine. Use solvent to clean oil and gasket off completely.
2) Drill through the cover from the inside. Use the existing hole as a guide. (use a bit that fits inside the hole)
3) Drill from the outside with a 5/16” drillbit being careful not to drill into the hole in the oil galley. The inside of the cover should remain the same as stock.
4) Follow oil galley up 1 1/8” from the hole. Use the 5/16” drill bit to drill a hole from the outside of the cover being careful not to drill through the oil galley.
5) Using a 1/8-27 NPT tap, tap both holes completely through. Use some oil for lubrication and work the tap slowly. Test fit the 90° fittings. Completely remove all metal shavings with solvent or soapy water and dry completely.
6) Mix up a small amount of liquid steel (epoxy putty). Using a small blade screwdriver, force the liquid metal into the oil galley. Block off the oil galley between the two holes only. Make sure not to block off the holes for the oil cooler lines. It is very important that the material dries completely. I like the putty because it is easy to work with and is strong stuff.
7) Install both of the 90° fittings using thread sealant. Install the hose barbs using sealant also.
Oil Cooler Mounting:
1) Remove front plastic for easy access to the frame rails.
2) Place cooler in desired position. It may be necessary to bend some of the fins out of the way…this will not cause any problems. The coil mounting bracket may interfere with the oil cooler lines. Use a block of wood and a hammer to bend the bracket for clearance.
3) After finalizing the location, stick the rubber pads on the frame tubes under the four corners of the oil cooler. It will be easier to install the oil lines on the cooler before mounting it down. Use Zip Ties to hold the cooler firmly in place.
4) You may want to trim the plastic for more airflow. This is optional, and NOT necessary.
5) "Always install the cooler so the nipples face upward. If that is not done, the oil can flow back into the engine when it is not running. Always want oil to stay in there." - Gen1Pat
Finishing Installation:
This would be a good time to change the oil filter
1) Install clutch cover. A new gasket is recommended.
2) Route cooler lines being careful not to kink them or come into contact with the exhaust. Do not secure the lines at this time, only figure out routing and proper length.
3) Fill the oil cooler with the proper oil. Route the cooler lines and connect them to the fittings with hose clamps. Use Zip Ties to secure the oil lines to the frame.
4) Fill the engine with oil using dipstick to gauge. The engine will hold more oil now due to the cooler. Run engine to completely fill cooler and lines with oil and top off to the “Full” level on the dipstick.
5) Run engine until oil cooler gets warm. This verifies that the oil is flowing through the cooler properly. This may take awhile. Re-check oil level.
NOTE:
Take your time with this mod. No holes should puncture the oil galley to the inside of the cover. The original hole is the only one that goes completely through the cover. The cover should look like Figure A. when you are done.
Keep a small length of hose somewhere on the quad. If something should happen to the cooler or hoses…use the short length to bypass the cooler. Simply attach it from one fitting to the other making sure it does not kink and restrict oil flow. This should get you home.
Figure A